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Re-orienting Cuisine

East Asian Foodways in the Twenty-First Century

Edited by Kwang Ok Kim

310 pages, 29 illus., bibliog., index

ISBN  978-1-78238-562-2 $95.00/£67.00 Hb Published (February 2015)

eISBN 978-1-78238-563-9 eBook


Hb   Request a Review or Examination Copy (in Digital Format) Recommend to your Library Buy the ebook from these vendors

“The chapters provide thought-provoking ethnographic material and theoretically rich insights into cuisine, place, identity, authenticity, borders, and taxonomy in Asian foodways in the twentieth and twenty-first centuries…[They] are ethnographically rich, analytically sharp, and cover a wide range of topics to ensure that this book will be read, taught, and cited by scholars interested in food, identity, globalization, and regionalism.” · Journal of Anthropological Research

“Overall, this book will be a useful addition to the shelf of books about material culture (what culture is not material?), migration, identity and politics, East Asia, and of course food studies. The chapters are of pleasing lengths and provide a useful variety. They are not aiming for timelessness, but rather timeliness, and on that basis they succeed quite well.” · Anthropos

“This volume has much to contribute to discourses on East Asian foodways, and would be useful for scholars interested in food and globalisation, and food safety, and also those with an interest in Korean food and foodways.” · Social Anthropology

“[The book] is very informative, and introduces material that might lead to very interesting debates in culture and foodways, as well as in the classroom.” · Merry White, Boston University

"This book is unique in that it covers Eurasia as a system, linking East Asia to Europe in an interesting and creative ways." · James L. Watson, Professor Emeritus, Harvard University

Foods are changed not only by those who produce and supply them, but also by those who consume them. Analyzing food without considering changes over time and across space is less meaningful than analyzing it in a global context where tastes, lifestyles, and imaginations cross boundaries and blend with each other, challenging the idea of authenticity. A dish that originated in Beijing and is recreated in New York is not necessarily the same, because although authenticity is often claimed, the form, ingredients, or taste may have changed. The contributors of this volume have expanded the discussion of food to include its social and cultural meanings and functions, thereby using it as a way to explain a culture and its changes.

Kwang Ok Kim, D.Phil. Oxon. is Professor Emeritus of Anthropology at Seoul National University and Yongje Distinguished Professor at Yonsei University. He has conducted fieldwork on the politics of culture in Korea, the Chinese mainland, and Taiwan. His publications include Ethnicity: Beyond the Myth (2006), Politics of Culture and Power Structure of a Korean Local Society (2012), and China in Everyday Practice (forthcoming).

Series: Volume 3, Food, Nutrition, and Culture
Subject: General Anthropology Food & Nutrition
Area: Asia

LC: GT2853.E18R46 2015

BISAC: SOC055000 SOCIAL SCIENCE/Agriculture & Food; SOC002010 SOCIAL SCIENCE/Anthropology/Cultural

BIC: JFCV Food & society; JHMC Social & cultural anthropology, ethnography




Contents

List of Illustrations
Acknowledgments

Introduction
Kwang Ok Kim

PART I: NATIONAL/LOCAL FOOD IN THE RE(MAKING)

Chapter 1. Dining Elegance and Authenticity: Archaeology of Royal Court Cuisine in Korea
Okpyo Moon

Chapter 2. History and Politics of National Cuisine: Malaysia and Taiwan
Hsin-Huang Michael Hsiao and Khay-Thiong Lim

Chapter 3. Wudang Daoist Tea Culture
Jean DeBernardi

Chapter 4. Rice Cuisine and Cultural Practice in Contemporary Korean Dietary Life
Kwang Ok Kim

PART II: FOOD PRACTICE ACROSS CULTURAL BOUNDARY

Chapter 5. Noodle Odyssey: East Asia and Beyond
Kyung-Koo Han

Chapter 6. Cultural Nostalgia and Global Imagination: Japanese Cuisine in Taiwan
David Y. H. Wu

Chapter 7. The Visible and the Invisible: Intimate Engagements with Russia’s Culinary East
Melissa L. Caldwell

Chapter 8. Experiencing the “West” through the “East” in the Margins of Europe: Chinese Food Consumption Practices in Post-socialist Bulgaria
Yuson Jung

Chapter 9. Exoticizing the Familiar, Domesticating the Foreign: Ethnic Food Restaurants in Korea
Sangmee Bak

Chapter 10. Serving Ambiguity: Class and Classification in Thai Food at Home and Abroad
Michael Herzfeld

PART III: HEALTH, SAFETY, AND FOOD CONSUMPTION

Chapter 11. Well-being Discourse and Chinese Food in Korean Society
Young-Kyun Yang

Chapter 12. The Social Life of American Crayfish in Asia
Sidney C. H. Cheung

Chapter 13. Eating Green: Ecological Food Consumption in Urban China
Jakob A. Klein

Chapter 14. From Food Poisoning to Poisonous Food: The Spectrum of Food-Safety Problems in Contemporary China
Yunxiang Yan

Notes on Contributors
Index

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